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THE DESIGNER REPORT

CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC

Modern, elegant and with unexpected details – Raf Simons' reimagining of the iconic brand has ushered in a new era for the label, all while maintaining its all-American reference points. The Style Report investigates

In his short time at the label, Simons has relished digging into American culture. He has collaborated with the Andy Warhol Foundation on producing prints, and worked with contemporary artist Sterling Ruby on sculptures for the sets of his shows. He has championed Calvin Klein stalwart Brooke Shields – who appeared in the infamous 1980 jeans campaign – by immortalising her leg-up pose as a motif, and supported new faces such as 14-year-old Millie Bobbie Brown (the face of his SS17 bespoke line), both of whom sat front row at the shows. Simons has also explored different views of America through his campaigns – see the Kardashian sisters wearing Calvin Klein underwear and wrapped up in patchwork quilts. The result? An image that speaks to a current generation, but fits into the lineage of American pop culture.

Born in Belgium, Simons is, of course, an outsider. He set his own template of youth culture and art-influenced fashion with his own label in 1995, and worked for icons of European fashion (Jil Sander and Christian Dior) before taking up the position at Calvin Klein 205W39NYC last year. Jo Ellison, fashion editor of the Financial Times, believes this position gives him a point of difference. ‘The quilt, the rodeo shirt, the Warhol screenprints, the cheerleader pom-pom skirts might have seemed cheesy if made by an American-born designer,' she says. ‘But under Simons, they have taken on a slightly different charge.' Alex Badia, style director at WWD, agrees. ‘I think Europeans, me included, have always been obsessed with American pop culture,' he says. ‘Raf's personal view celebrates culture in a freer spirit, allowing for a more fluid mix of references that otherwise would not work